The Rolex Submariner reference 1680, produced from 1966 to 1979, holds a special place in the hearts of watch collectors. Its evolution, particularly in its bezel variations, offers a fascinating glimpse into Rolex's design philosophy and the changing demands of its clientele. While the standard configuration featured a black bezel insert with white markings, the reality is far richer and more nuanced, showcasing a remarkable array of variations that enhance the 1680's already legendary status. This article delves into the intricacies of these bezel variations, exploring their characteristics, rarity, and the factors that contribute to their desirability among collectors.
The Standard Bearer: The Black Bezel with White Markings
The most common bezel insert found on the Rolex 1680 is undeniably the black insert with white, luminous numerals and markers. This classic configuration perfectly complements the watch's overall aesthetic, providing excellent legibility underwater. The bidirectional nature of the bezel, a key characteristic of the 1680, allows for both timing elapsed time and setting the bezel to track a specific duration. This functionality, while not as robust against accidental rotation as the later unidirectional bezels found on subsequent Submariner models, reflects the design preferences of the era. The contrast between the black insert and the white markings ensured optimal readability, even in low-light conditions. The luminous material used, likely tritium, aged gracefully over time, often developing a creamy patina that adds character and charm to these vintage pieces. The variation in the aging of the lume itself – ranging from creamy yellow to almost brown – contributes significantly to the unique character of each individual watch.
The Red Submariner and its Significance: The "Red" Bezel Variations
The Rolex 1680 is synonymous with the iconic "Red Submariner." This designation refers not simply to the red text on the dial, but also to the variations in the bezel insert that frequently accompany this sought-after configuration. While the black bezel with white markings remains common on the red-dial 1680, a significant number of examples feature variations in the bezel insert color and markings. These variations are not always clearly documented, adding to the mystery and desirability of these particular watches. Some collectors argue that certain bezel variations were more common on specific years of production, or even tied to specific dial variations, though definitive proof of such patterns remains elusive. The red text on the dial, however, is a clear indicator of a particular era and adds to the overall value and collectability of the watch. The combination of the red dial and a particular bezel variation, for example, a darker shade of black or one exhibiting unique aging characteristics, can significantly increase its value in the collector's market.
Beyond Black: Exploring Uncommon Bezel Colors and Markings
While black is the dominant color for the 1680 bezel, instances of other colors exist, albeit rarely. These variations are highly sought after by collectors and represent a compelling aspect of the 1680's appeal. While definitive records of the production numbers are scarce, anecdotal evidence suggests that certain shades of dark brown or even faded green inserts occasionally appeared on 1680s. These are often considered to be the result of significant age and exposure to the elements, leading to a unique and attractive patina. The condition and originality of these bezels are crucial factors in determining their value. A bezel that appears to have been artificially aged or altered is significantly less valuable than one that exhibits natural aging consistent with its age.
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